Pond Parasite Control with DTHP

By Bob Fenner, Rick Aspray, Matt Tsunoda

Many of the visibly large external parasites of goldfish and koi such as anchorworm (Lernaea) and fish lice (Argulus) and others not so easily seen; flukes, some protozoans are eradicated effectively using DTHP. When used appropriately; that is, occasionally in a correct dosage and application interval, it is a very useful, safe cure.

0,0-dimethyl 2,2,2-trichloro-1-hydroxyethyl phosphonate (DTHP) is the international Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry's scientific name for an organophosphate insecticide that goes by many different trade names. Most people know it as Dylox, D50, Dipterex, Masoten, Trichlorofon, Foschlor or Neguvon. Yes, these are all names for exactly the same molecule. It is a white, dull powder. Check your local source for pond treatments; DTHP is a common active ingredient in many medications.

There are many advantages of using DTHP:

1) It is readily water-soluble.
2) DTHP degrades within a period of hours to days in water
3) Will not interfere with biological filtration.
4) Will not discolor your water.
5) Is easily removed with activated carbon.
6) Is inexpensive and readily available.
7) Has a wide range of safety.
8) Is relatively non-toxic to non-invertebrates.

External Parasites Susceptible to Treatment with DTHP:

¥ rotozoans; Ichthyophthirius, Trichodina
¥ "Worms"; flukes ( e.g. Benedenia, Dactylogyrus, Gyrodactylus)
¥ Leeches; e.g. Piscicola, Placobdella
¥ Crustaceans e.g. fish lice (Alus, anchor worm (Lernaea)
¥ Snails and insects as well

Some Cautionary Remarks: It is extremely valuable to understand as much of 'the big picture" when undertaking the treatment of any diseased condition". Environmental, nutritional, genetic influences should be sized up before undertaking a chemical/physical war.

Towards the end of "arming" oneself, it is suggested that you discuss your situation with local fish stores or hobbist groups before actually committing yourself to a given regimen.

There are, indeed, several interacting sets of factors to contend with. Some discussion of these follows. It is presumed at this point that the reader is familiar with the optimal living conditions of their fishes, and knows how to test for and adjust the aquatic environment.

Preventions: All new and moved livestock is suspect and should be treated prophylactically by dipping, treatment and quarantine. Fish from even a reputable dealer and ones that have co-mingled in a fish show are possibly infested and should be treated as detailed below. Many parasite problems are perennial with a change in season, brought in with foods, water and birds (yes, that's right, "aerially-borne"). These should be anticipated.

Identification of Parasites: This is mainly a matter of observing irregular, abnormal behavior such as excessive scratching, glancing, jumping, listlessness, poor feeding, observation of sores, bleeding or in advanced stages with larger parasites, observation of the adult forms.

Application: The published values for concentration and intervals are highly variable. DTHP is sometimes used as a dip; but for the sake of this article we will recount our personally most successful methods.

1) Clean your system as much as practical of organic debris before starting chemical treatments. If your fish(es) are not so debilitated that they can withstand a very large change, dump the system entirely, removing all "sludge". Disinfection guidelines are available in the reference "Acid & Bleach Washing".

2) Examine all your fish(es) individually. Remove adult parasites carefully with forceps/tweezers; swab the parasite first and the area after removal with mercury-based compound (mercurochrome, merthiolate, merbromin) or equivalent. This is necessary because the intermediate stages of many external parasites are easily killed with low concentrations of DTHP, but attached adults require higher concentrations, and longer exposure.

3) If possible, dip the all the processed individual fish through a dilute Formalin bath (one ounce of formalin or formaldehyde in five gallons of water) for two minutes. Some people still treat external parasites with just formalin, even placing it into their holding system. This is not generally suggested due to narrow safety margin and probability of interrupting biological filtration.

4) Treat the holding pond with one level teaspoon per one thousand gallons of the system. This amount of material should be re-administered three times every four days. Over a possible range of temperatures and pH's, concentrations of biomass among other mitigating circumstances, this treatment will result in a safe, effective cure. Many references cite higher and lower values/dosages. The source of the DTHP may be diluted with a carrier, have lost effectiveness due to age and exposure. Considering all these factors, something around 0.25 part per million active ingredient over a period of two weeks will kill most of the commonly encountered external parasites of pond fish. Particularly severe, persistent infestations may require an additional series of treatments. If you are up to calculating the actual ppm for your system, be sure to take into account the % active ingredient of DTHP in your source; most are 50 0or 80%.

Dissolve the DTHP powder in pond water and distribute evenly around the edge of the system. Keep the water in motion through your normal filtration/recirculation system.

There is unfortunately, no inexpensive chemical, physical assay for testing the concentration of DTHP while its in your system. Simple calculations, a gram/balance, more frequent administered, smaller amounts, may give you some assurance that you have "enough " active ingredient in the system during the treatment line.

Administering DTHP With Other Treatments: In general mixing DTHP with formalin, copper, malachite, salts and other medications is not advised, is unnecessary and DANGEROUS. If your livestock is weak, you may push them over the edge by using more harsh chemicals.

Other Treatment Cautions: As mentioned above, if you have some snails or other non-fish/non-plant life in the treated system you'd like to keep, you will have to remove them and return them only after the parasite problem is cured and the DTHP removed by time or carbon filtration.

DTHP is notably toxic to both waterfowl and marine sharks, should you have them in mind for treatment.

As with all organo-phosphate pesticides, you should strive for minimum physical contact. Keep your source securely stored away from moisture and heat, animals and children, and the material be well labeled.

If you have over-treated your fish, you may observe them to be twitching, dark in color, listless with clamped fins, or to exhibit abnormal breathing. If this occurs, make a large water change or move the affected stock to new water.

One last parting comment; it is becoming more and more common to hear people talk of resistance of parasites to DTHP and concurrent ineffectuality of treatment. Preventative treatment of your whole system during the Spring and Fall is recommended by some writers, or anytime fish show any abnormal systems. We encourage more limited, periodic use of DTHP in conjunction with routine water quality maintenance and quarantine.

References:
- Adachi, Takemi. 1985. Unpublished "Koi Pond Book"
- Blasiola, G.C. 1976. "Ectoparasitic turbellaria," Marine Aquarist, Vol 7, No. 2, pp. 53-58
- Fenner, R. & Martin, C., 1987. "Water Effects: Cleaning, Acid, and Bleach Washing", Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Magazine Vol 10, No. 4 pp. 30-33
- Herwig, Nelson, 1979. Handbook Of Drugs And Chemicals Used IN The Treatment Of Fish Diseases, Charles Thomas Publisher, Springfield, Ill.

Some Notes on Algae and Their Control in Biological Ponds

Perhaps you're one of the fortunate people who've been following this series of articles and have made adequate provision in the design and construction of your water effect to preclude having "green water" problems. If not and you'd like an introduction to the whys and wherefores of algae and their control, read on.

The simplest oxygen-producing organisms on this planet are the algae. They are for the most part autotrophic (self-feeding), contain chlorophyll and other pigments, but have no true roots, stems or leaves.

They occur wherever there is sufficient light for photosynthesis, water and nutrients; in fresh and salt water, in soil, in hot springs, snow, even on and in plants and animals. Along with some fungi, there are algae that live on bare rock as lichens in such forbidding areas as the Arctic.

The Cast of Characters - The Algae

1) Blue-green algae: More closely related to bacteria than other algae, they are often the scum on polluted, under-aerated/circulated, over-fertilized waters. They are typically slimy. Forms include single cells, clusters, threads and chains.

2) Green algae: Most commonly encountered; found everywhere. Occur as floating, attached, swimming forms and seasonal surface blooms.

3) Brown and Red algae: Mostly marine, most common kelps. Attached seashore forms.

4) Diatoms and dinoflagellates: Mostly marine, microscopic algae, ubiquitous, mostly beneficial in terms of nutrient cycling, oxygen production, competition with undesirable forms. Rarely cause problems in ornamental water features.

5) Other algae groups: Euglenoids, golden brown, yellow green algae and others that are generally not a problem in captive waters.

Sometimes beneficial, functionally and aesthetically, other times unwelcome guests, algae are easily controlled if understood. Most can be avoided by designing and constructing your system to reduce light and nutrient availability, other problems can be lessened through maintenance.

Control methods can be divided into three categories: In general on the basis of most to least appropriate in terms of long term cost, safety and ease of use, these are biological, mechanical and chemical controls. A few pertinent facts hold for all methods of algae control.

Prevention

1) Chemical Activity: algae thrive in our hard, alkaline water. It is advantageous to render the non-water part of their environment chemically inert. Rocks and concrete should be treated to lessen reactivity with the water. Initially, this may involve acid-washing to leach out alkalinity, use of plastic cements, foundation coatings. Many times it is most appropriate to coat the basin(s) with a sealing material. Some proper types are asphalt emulsions, chlorinated rubber paints and epoxies. Marine paints and others may be formulated to be toxic; read the labels carefully. Rocks and other decorations should be checked for reactivity. They should not be detectable by smell or taste; or they may be checked by chemical analysis. This will apply to all rock, including the waterfall, that comes in direct contact with the water.

2) Circulation: Most algae do better under stagnant conditions. Keep your water in motion with air pumps and/or pumps.

3) Light and heat: The more intense the light, over the longer period of time, with the deepest penetration to the bottom, the more the algae will grow. Aquatic plants, circulation waves, shade from trees, walls, lathe or screen will help. Make your system's sides as steep and deep as possible and safe. Color the basin(s) as dark as possible to reduce light reflection. Black is the best despite its heat absorption properties. During construction, dyes can be added to the concrete. The lower and more stable the temperature the better.

4) Filtration: Please see the article in this series (PG&L, Aug. 86) for a more complete discussion of different forms of filtration. Particulate filters are least useful, but do aid by simply removing sediment that might provide space for algae growth. Chemical filtration is generally unrealistic, but use of water-softening clays and carbons may go some distance in preventing full-on blooms. Biological filters of several designs for systems with livestock, if properly engineered, are the key factor in keeping your system balanced in your favor. You can win by launching biological warfare with bacteria cultures purchased at tropical fish stores and having these microorganisms live in your filter, preventing algae growth by removing nutrient from the water.

5) Plants: Are useful in controlling algae. They cut down on light and use some of the nutrients otherwise available to algae. Water hyacinths, water lettuce, duckweed, alligator grass, lilies and oxygenating grasses are among many excellent choices.

6) Pollutants: Control of these is very important. Food for algae comes from feeding your livestock and fertilizing your plants. Be careful using fertilizers around your pond, as a very small amount can produce several orders of magnitude weight in unwanted algae growth. Keep soil, toys, children, basically any and everything else out of the pond.

Frequent, partial water changes are the order of the day for all fish ponds. They are the best way of diluting nutrients. See article on cleaning in this series (PG&L, Sept. 86).

Control

So much for prevention, now on to existing problems.

Biological: Algae eaters - Snails are the most widely used scavengers, but not always a good choice. Snails carry diseases for fish and humans. Many are bisexual and it is hard to control the population, others die mysteriously. Check with your local aquatic garden for appropriate available species. Some fishes, like small koi, dojos (misgurnus anqullicaudata) are useful as biological controls.

Mechanical: Second best to prevention and biological controls are manual methods. Routine brushing of the sides and vacuuming helps during partial water changes. Acid and/or bleach washes are sometimes appropriate. Rock salt is a good abrasive to use in scrubbing ponds. State of the art methods include ultraviolet sterilizers and ozonizers. These physical filters destroy algae on exposure and help oxidize nutrients as the water is circulated.

Chemical: This form of algae control is the least desirable route generally in terms of cost, safety and long term effect. With most, you can't have live plants. There are several brands on the market, many of little value. The problem being that they treat the symptoms only without dealing with the cause(s) of the algae problem, which is "What are the factors that are contributing to this system being out of balance?" If you do use algicides, keep a close eye on the dosage and be on the lookout for below acute toxic side effects. Several products state that under "bad conditions" the dosage may be doubled or tripled. If your water starts foaming and your fish start gasping heavily at the surface, remove the fish and change part of the water.

After all this talk of controlling algae, it ought to be pointed out that sometimes it's better to have algae. Algae growth in moderation is an indication of a normal, healthy state. Within moderation, algae help keep the pond balanced and stable. The trick lies in the word moderate. If you can keep the algae groomed, in one desired area or cropped to a short length on the walls of your system, this will be to your advantage. By having desirable forms, you can reduce the incidence of green water algae blooms.

Algae come in many shapes, colors and sizes. Many are beautiful, and often fish do well in algae-infested waters. If you want to control algae in your pond at least enough so you can see your fish, the above suggestions will help

This month we'll review the book, Fountains and Pools.

Fountains and Pools, by C. Douglas Auraund is a new publication. It's a technical and resource manual crammed with information to aid contractors, architects, and designers construct water features that will look good and do the job they envision.

The book discusses material selection and specifications, mechanical systems, electrical systems, basin sizing and hydraulic calculations, and construction details. Fountains and Pools is resplendent with charts, diagrams, and illustrations. The text is detailed, thorough, and easy to understand. You definitely do not have to be an engineer to gain value from this book.

If you are not familiar with the varied considerations concerning water features this book will give you an excellent insight into the design and construction of such features. Fountains and Pools does not presume to discuss the aesthetics, philosophy or economies of including a water feature in an architectural design. Its purpose is to give you a greater understanding of the design and implementation of your idea into a landscape.

A landscape contractor will come away from this book with the ability to construct a water feature. A landscape architect will have a sound background on which to rely when considering a water feature, its feasibility, and its location in the landscape.

Fountains and Pools is illustrated with 125 drawings and construction details, 78 photographs and numerous tables listing and comparing materials, components and their applications. This book is a definite candidate for a space on your bookshelf.

Fountains and Pools is published by PDA Publishers Corporation of Mesa, AZ. It's available hardbound for $26.00 and paperback for $18.00. 168 pages.

Rating: 4444 A very good book. If you design or construct water features this is a good source for technical information and general understanding.

For more information on this book and the other publications of PDA please circle #103 on the Reader Service Card.

Waterfall Construction

By Bob Fenner

Waterfalls provide aesthetic and functional elements to a waterscapes: sights, sounds, aeration, oxidation of wastes, dissipation of chlorine are the most noted benefits.

Design

There are as many different designs as there are waterfalls themselves. As we have mentioned in previous articles on design, consideration must be given for the effects of splash and wind to keep the water in your system. The provisions of drops and pools in a fall design versus semi-smooth hissing, gurgling streams is more a matter of taste than function. It is suggested you visit and sketch as many operational falls as practical to gain an understanding of your design,

Construction

The actual construction of waterfalls ranges from potentially a simple, straightforward matter to a totally frustrating, leaky, massive nightmare.

Thankfully there exists appropriate, simple technology for easily building any size and shape fall. This article details the necessary elements, materials, tools and steps to completion to constructing waterfalls.

The Trick

The simple most important item in the construction of a waterfall is the use of a pvc or polybutyl liner placed over a structural "trough" in such a way that any water that is pumped into the falls ends up in the system.

In The Beginning

When you can use a single piece of liner for both the basin(s), stream(s) if any, and falls, do so. If not practical or possible, as in where a fall is being built on an existing water effect, a piece of liner can be fit to overlap the extant berm (edge).

Foundation

After conceiving and making a sketch of the finished product, comes consideration of the foundation the fall is to be built on if outside the basin.

Your fall must be built on a solid, compacted surface, or else the mass of the fall settling may cause structural failure. The base and trough of the fall must rest on an immovable base. If necessary, dig a form in or above the ground, place gravel and sand, reinforcing mesh and possibly rebar, and pour a concrete foundation. Upon this base you'll form a trough, the actual water-coveying, waterfall stream-bed. This does not have to be aesthetically pleasing at this point; only functionally able to accommodate the flow of water desired.

The liner is laid over, enplaced in this trough and well into the basin the fall empties into.

Rockwork, wood, plants, ornaments are mortared or otherwise affixed into this trough structure.

The actual discharges(s) near the top of the falls can be fitted over or through the liner (see article on Liner Use in Construction ). It can be seen that if the objects in the trough lose water, there will be no loss as it will still be within the system due to the integrity of the liner.

Other pertinent articles in this series that may aid in the Design and construction of waterfalls are: Rock Selection & Use, Wood, Selection and Use, Concrete in Construction of Water Features.

It is advised that waterfalls be constructed with the basin(s) they are emptying into being drained and that the concrete, mortar, grouts possibly being used , be treated/cured with an acid bath prior to going on-line.

Plumbing

One last note: If you haven't provided for an alternate discharge and drain for your pond, this is your big chance. The discharge line can be fitted with a three way valve or a two one way ball valves and a tee to facilitate partial water change, diversion of water from the falls.

Plumbing your water effect can be the easiest or worst part of construction and maintenance. This article attempts to help you avoid the two most common plumbing pitfalls: under-planning and poor construction.

Planning: First of all, in any design, consideration should be given utmost to the desired result(s). That is, what will the final effect be? Quantity and quality of sights, sounds and utility can be achieved only with adequate planning. Plumbing is frequently a sore area in this regard.

In designing your water effect give thought to the following plumbing lines: 1) Intake(s) 2) Discharge(s) 3) Filter and Pump 4) Drain(s) 5) Overflow 6) Fill line. Before discussing these we'll discuss some beliefs, facts, attitudes and methods regarding plumbing in general.

Materials: Thank goodness this is the eighties! Hurrah for plastic pipe! Most of the plumbing you will do on your water effect may be done with PVC (poly-vinyl-chloride) pipe. I suggest schedule 40 for adequate strength/thickness. Hot on the scene is the use of flexible pvc pipe that may be joined to rigid with a special solvent. Pipe and fittings are readily available and easy to use. Cutting tools are available for lower and lower cost or rental other than the standby hacksaw or friction-string trick. Ask your dealer about solvents that are appropriate for use. There are many that require no primer and work well under less than ideal conditions of dirt and moisture.

Pipe Size: Commonly pipelines are undersized and occasionally oversized. Rules of thumb: Never size down an intake or discharge line. The size of the fitting at the volute (outer casing of the pump) should not be made smaller. Among other ills this will reduce flow and motor life and increase energy costs; in other words, don't do it! Overflow and drain lines should be way oversized. Anything smaller than 1 1/2" is a bad joke; especially if there is a long run with any number of turns.

Valves: By and large these should be 1) Schedule 40, (sometimes 80) 2) Plastic 3) Ball type. These will give long, dependable service with less induced drag (friction) than gate valves of any sort. Systems using plumbing greater than four inch should consider butterfly valves. Ball, flap and spring-type check valves should also be plastic. Their use is of such considerable importance we will deal with them in a separate following article. Unions are special fittings that allow easier repair and replacement of plumbing without having to cut lines. Where possibly cost effective, use true-unions, especially at valves and pump connections.

Layout: It goes without saying that the best layout is the least complicated and conspicuous. If possible, plumbing that's not outside the water holding basin(s) should be within the basins. This is especially possible in concreted basins, particularly ones using a liner as a water-impermeable membrane. Their plumbing may be lain down over the membrane or attached to the wire reinforcing mesh and covered by concrete. These lines may enter and exit the basin above the water line. If the plumbing is to be fitted through the basin below water level, care will have to be taken to prevent leaking. See the construction articles in this series.

1) Intakes: Intake lines should be as many in number and large of size as practical. For biological ponds, the intakes should be situated somewhat off the bottom. So-called bad water should be left below where it may be vented to waste via the drain line.

2) Pump and Filter lines: As to the size of lines from the intake line(s), the pump may be reducer bushing fitted (bushed) to the size of the volute right at the pump. As you'll find when we get to articles concerning pumps, most are made to push, not pull and so care should be taken in designing and building the plumbing lines to reduce restriction on the intake side as much as possible. If the pump system is above resting water level, check valves and/or ball valves should be installed right before and after the pump. If the pump system is below resting water level, union ball valves will allow you to clean out your trap, do pump repairs or removal without much water loss/flooding.

While providing plumbing (= cutting in) to the pump and filter, there arises a possibility of providing a vac-line. This specialty plumbing is appropriate in cases where there is inadequate self-cleaning by design. Either through a pool-designed skimmer system in the basin, or two two-way or a three way valve system with a hook-up for a periodic vaccing. This vac-system is something you may want to provide for initially in design and installing the plumbing (see Illustration).

3) Discharge: These lines should be as short as possible. There is generally not much to be gained by sizing up the discharge(s) beyond that of the size of the pump. To some large extent much efficiency is lost through extra turns, more length of pipe. Plan and measure twice, cut and glue once.

Discharges should be non-restricted at their ends. If possible, at least one of the discharge ends should be left completely open.

You may want an alternate discharge to vent water for irrigation, drainage or to dump the system.

4) Drains: You will thank me and yourself later for installing a drain line or at least a definitely deeper area, possibly with a sump. A drain and/or sump will greatly facilitate cleaning, partial water change and dumping. We have found it expedient to pre-insert a drainage box (conduit) or in very small systems a bucket with rocks to leave a depression in the deepest part. The concrete mix is placed around this area to provide a slope.

If possible, use gravity to drain the feature, situating a ball valve for control in the most convenient, accessible area. Take care that this waste water goes where you want it to go; where it will do no harm.

It is often appropriate to connect the overflow line with the drain line and run them collectively to waste, saving cost and flushing.

5) Overflow: Talk with anyone who's built an aquascape and they'll concur; they should have incorporated an overflow in their design. There will be times when all systems will purposely or accidentally be overfilled.

The simplest overflow is the lowest edge of the system. You might make this area intentionally and provide it with a screen to keep debris out and livestock in.

As previously stated, imagine a flood of biblical proportions when sizing your pipe; the bigger the better.

6) Fill Line: All systems will benefit by an automatic refill or continuous-drip make-up system. You can provide one of these by tapping off a pressurized irrigation line or potable water line. There are a wide range of available types, costs for floating to electronic devices.

Conclusion: It may seem from this discussion that you're going to have to become an engineer and plumber in order to build your water feature. Such is not the case with ourselves and others for help and new tools and materials. By following the advice presented here and in this series you will be able to properly plan, construct and maintain your effect with a minimum hassle.

Repairing Concrete Water Features

By Bob Fenner

There are several approaches to repairing concrete water features. Human nature dictates that you will want to put in the least amount of time and money to achieve the desired result. This article details appropriate strategies for repairing leaking concrete water effects

Water basins made of cementatious materials may leak due to cracking, wear or poor construction. These repair problems are common to our industry and their expedient repair constitutes a large market. The selling and application of various repair technologies can be described in order of least cost and effort versus perceived scope of job and likelihood of success.

Approaches: Simplest problem/solution to disaster/salvation

1) Individuals facing water feature repairs have several options to choose from. At the lowest end of the spectrum, they can do nothing! i.e., abandon the system or keep adding water periodically as it disappears. This may present a problem in terms of material leaching back into, poisoning the system or damage due to leakage.

2) If the basin(s) and fall(s) are intact with no visible large cracks and the structure is stable (check for adequate soil compaction and/or other support) a coating of asphalt-based emulsion (e.g. Henry's or Marvin's) or epoxy-based paint or cementatious foundation coating, may be applied in "bad" areas or more appropiately over the entire surface. Desired surface color and texture will dictate which type coating to use. Note: "clear" sealers and penetrants designed to treat new concrete will not work on cured concrete leaks.

3) ^f hairline to large cracks are evident and the basin is otherwise stable, you can chip out the damaged spot to expose a new, clean surface and try to remedy (band-aid) the area with a patch of silicon-rubber based material, hydrated calcium silicates (e.g. foundation coatings) or epoxy-based materials. The prognosis for such "repairs" is not good; at best they are temporary measure that will fail.

4) For repairing the more serious "moving " and "growing" cracks, one should use an elastomeric membrane system. These are most commonly polyurethane/bitumen or chlorinated-rubber based and can be applied by brush, trowel or specialized spray equipment. These materials have a high tensile strength (elasticity) and can be applied too the questionable areas alone, or better still, over the entire basin & fall surface. It may be necessary and/or is strongly advised that these elastomerics be plaster coated over. Read and follow the manufacturers' instructions thoroughly.

5) Situations where rocks go through the basin wall (always a disaster), large cracks, questionable compaction and obviously unstable walls call for the most drastic action. In this, the worst scenario, it may be necessary to remove all of the existing structure and start from scratch. This, of course,costs more than doing the job right the first time. At this point, the failing system may be left in place and the basin considered a mere hole in the ground in which new walls, fall(s) and bottom constructed over old.

One common method is to apply a cement or plaster coat over the entire basin surface. This coating consists of plastic cement, sharp sand, water and possibly a coloring agent. For added strength this method may be modified by adding a reinforcing mesh to the "new" basin. úHexagonal chicken wire in two eshes, welded wire, and for very large systems, tie-wire rebar may be called for. This is not, however, the most sure-fire method.

The most appropriate, best-available technology consists of retrofitting a liner thick rubber or vinyl over the existing surface. For falls, a trough is constructed as a water-proof base-form and the liner is fitted over it. This is adhered to the basin liner, making a continuous water-proof membrane. The liner may be economically left as it is, but to ensure against rips and punctures, it is prudent to apply mesh and mortar over all as above. If more rock work is desired, this can be done at this time or later.

This is the best method of repair in terms of guaranteed long-term leak-proofing.

Other Considerations:

Plumbing may be a primary or secondary problem in dealing with leak problems of unknown or "known" origin. It is strongly advised that all plumbing lines be pressure tested before wasting time and money on repairing the concrete (see article on Plumbing Pressure Testing).

It may go almost without saying that the system must be absolutely clean and dry before making these repairs to ensure proper adhesion.

How do you go about deciding which of these technologies applies to the situation at hand? Read this article carefully! Evaluate the source of the problem; apply the appropriate method; don't take short cuts that may not work. Your success with these different repair methods will vary proportionately with the amount of time, energy and money you are willing to invest.

Once that you've decided on a water effect for your landscape and given consideration (design) as to location, size, shape to accommodate drainage, proximity to utilities, and aesthetics (please see previous articles in this series) it is time to plan construction.

First, in order of importance and typically number one in cost, is excavation. My advice is to use power tools and equipment wherever and whenever possible. The cost in blisters, backache, lost time and sleep are much greater than the rental of a power digger, demolition hammer, backhoe, or tractor. However, if the basins are small enough and your resolve strong enough, you may find pick and shovel work more to your liking.

A philosophy of digging methods and attitudes might fill a book. Suffice it to say that:

1) You're going to divide the world into two parts, the hole and not the hole.

2) Work from a measured, marked off edge (use chalk, gypsum, or flower).

3) Beer is the great construction expediter if you are contemplating a major excavation on your own. You would/will be amazed at how many volunteers there are to be had for a few six packs. Then again who could afford the liability insurance? Never mind. Just skip #3.

4) As per item #3 above, get help! Try using dollars instead of beer. The job goes a lot easy when its performed expeditiously.

5) Pace yourself. Rome and your pond were/will not be built in one day.

6) Despite #5 don't stop digging! If you have any doubt as to whether or not your basin is big enough, deep enough, or the side steep enough, keep going. When you later form the sides and the bottom is laid, you'll lose volume. By placing rocks and planters for lilies and such, you'll lose volume. Even fish will displace water. It is so much easier to dig the system right the first time than to have to bust it up and start again.

After pulling out the soil you'll discover evidence refuting the law of the conservation of matter. You have more material than will fit back into the hole! Perhaps you're lucky and can scatter the excavated soil throughout the garden or have a low spot that needs filling. Maybe this is your big chance to do some mounding and add to your landscape's "hilliness". (Been doing a lot of digging, haven't you?)

It's an excellent idea to check with your plot plan and utility companies before digging.

This article details the steps to install pre-cast concrete and cut-stone fountains, basins and statuary used in water features. Variations in technique, availability of materials and local climactic and geological conditions may necessitate modification. It is suggested that you review this article with suppliers, architects, owners, or their representatives before attempting assembly.

1.) Site project with owner (s), or representative
a.) 3D orientation. How will pieces be oriented in relation to other elements? Suggest field sketch and initialing. Maybe lay hose out to model approximate base size, setting.
b.) Water of fall pattern. Gallons per hour to produce desired sights and sounds? Appropriate sized and engineered pump, filter, circulation, electrical systems.
c.) Possibility and provision for lighting, auto fill, drain, remoted pump system.

2.) Most will require forming a bottom basin.
a.) Measure, make template of outside perimeter by arranging base pieces on a flat surface allowing a 1/2 - 3/4" mortar joint space. Measure outside diameter plus a few inches extra for size of concrete slab.
b.) Excavation. Minimum 3-4 inches; lay down gravel and sand if appropriate.
c.) Stake edge.
d.) Build form with footing for fountain if necessary
e.) Insert rebar for edge of lowest basin; reinforced mesh as appropriate.
f.) Provide sump area, auto fill, filter, recirculation system, light niches in foundation as desired/planned.

3.) Lay in plumbing if remoted. (See Plumbing articles)
a.) Fill line.
b.) Intake, return.
c.) Drain line with ball valve.

4.) Electrical; if light(s), pump in fountain.
a.) Lights, pump in fountain.
b.) Conduit laid in foundation; stubb's through copper or brass.
c.) Junction box, MIP wrapped with plastic to keep clean.

5.) Pour foundation; using pre-mix or 5-6 bag mix.
a.) Float two times.
b.) Scratch coat with white plaster if plaster finish.
c.) Leave rough if foundation coated; Sinak or comparable sealant.
d.) Allow to cure 24 plus hours.

6.) Build fountain.
a.) By piece.
b.) Lay in pump, plumbing first if required.
c.) Be Careful, take your time; this is the land where squished toes, smashed fingers and bad backs abound.
d.) Each consecutive piece must seat on all others which must level and planar.
e.) Use a masonary or carpenters level to check each piece.
Make a few level checks for each piece. If your level's too short, set it on a true 2 by long enough to reach the width of the pieces.

7.) Seat bottom pedestal with mortar, a bonder or concrete adhesive and coloring agent; possibly pin with rebar and lock with block, concrete.
a.) Wedge with permanent material as required.
b.) Apply sealer around riser/stub-ups as necessary.

8.) Let set up for a short while, at least until mortar does not leave finger print; move and lock next basin(s), pedestals in place the same way.

9.) Build perimeter.
a.) Set all pieces on edge of foundation in place.
b.) Mark edge placement with chalk of pencil.
c.) Move off pieces on either side of first section of block on first course to make up perimeter.
d.) Mortar bottom and butter one side.
e.) Move in one direction doing steps c and d until all pieces set. Be careful not to disturb already mortared pieces.
f.) Wait an hour, wire brush mortar joints.
g.) Paint interior surface with undiluted concrete adhesive.
h.) Apply scratch coat of interior mortar wash or plaster mix (plastic cement, silica sand and, adhesive and coloring agent) to all bottom and inside of basin. Put on two coats of at least 3/4 inch total thickness.

10.) Seal fountain.
a.) Use penetrant sealant, liquid silicone and/or...
b.) Install tile if to be done.

11.) Let dry 24 hours; if livestock is to be added, you should do dilute acid-wash first (see Acid/Bleach Wash article).

12.) Hook up electrical to G.F.I. outlets or breaker; attach plumbing to pump, filter; auto-fill.

13.) Fire up system, check for leaks, wind blow over.

See operations, articles and checklists for further information on Filtration, Electrical, G.F.I., Lighting, Tile and Start-Up.

**See ops, plumbing, filtration, electrical, lighting, tile, and start up.

Questions, problems or suggestions? Call us at Aquatic Environments, (619) 549-2678 in San Diego.

WATER EFFECTS: Cleaning, Acid and Bleach Washing

From time to time all water effects require thorough cleanings. Elements of a total clean out involve dewatering, removing debris and livestock, if any, possible chlorine bleaching, and/or acid washing, refilling and treating chemically. This article details the procedures and precautions on how to clean your pond, fountain or reflecting pool.

It should be also be noted that these operations are nearly identical for those who acid wash plaster coated swimming pools and spas. Most all of the equipment and chemicals for your system are available through your local pool supplier.

Once you've decided that your basin(s) need a thorough cleaning, there's too much gunk in the system, that an adequate cleaning cannot be effected by simple vac-ing and netting, the following steps are indicated.

DEWATERING: Dumping all the water out of the system can be a job in itself. In the best of circumstances, you will have a sloping bottom with a sump drain. In some cases you can siphon out most of the liquid with a garden or pool vac hose. The larger the diameter, the greater the change in elevation, the better. If all else fails you may have to pump your system out.

Please be sure to check where all this water and glop you're removing is going to end up. Many municipalities require the use of a sewer, not the street storm drain system. If indeed you vent your discharge into a sewer clean-out, make sure to screen out all solids that might clog your waste water system.

LIVESTOCK: If your system involves fish and plants, you'll have to make provisions for safe storage. A clean trash can or kiddie wading pool will do for holding containers in most cases. If you use containers with a suspicious background, guard against leakage and chemical contamination by using trash can or polyetheline liners (aka visqueen).

Your holding containers should be fitted with adequate aeration/circulation/filtration. In the short term a small air pump and airstone will do. Cover your fish to protect them from jumping. Refrain from feeding in close quarters.

Very important note: Many people lose their livestock in the process of complete clean outs. This is caused mainly by the change in the water chemistry and physical make up going from old to new water. The problem is that water changes with time and without adequate filtration, and frequent partial water changes, water quality may change so much that even though cleaning is a step in the right direction, it may be too much too soon. On way to reduce this source of trauma is 1) for several days prior to clean out, flush the system with new water; 2) when transferring livestock, use a good portion, 50% or more, of the old water to house them. The most happy circumstance occurs in multiple basin systems where livestock can be kept in the same water.

REMOVING DEBRIS: Once you've removed the water and livestock, it's time to figure out how to get rid of the muck on the bottom. If you're lucky, you may be able to drain or siphon most all of this out. Otherwise you may have to pump, shovel, bechet, bail, or net as much out as possible. The last of it may be removed with a wet & dry vac.

BLEACHING: Depending on the degree of cleanliness/sterility desired, bleaching/acid washing may be superfluous so you may want to just refill, treat the water and return the livestock to the system. This is actually preferable in biological systems. In non-biological systems or where you want to check for cracks, prepare the surface for coating, sealing or patching, or sterilize the system for whatever reason, bleaching/acid washing is the way to go.

The choice of whether to bleach and/or acid wash your system depends on how much stuff is growing in the system. If there's a lot of biological material, bleaching's the way to go. If chemical stains such as rust and scale are your only problem, then an acid washing's all you need.

Ordinary household chloringe bleach will do in a pinch, but swimming pool bleach is more concentrated and cost effective. This is best applied with a plastic watering can, by diluting about half to one third strength with water. The diluted bleach is sprinkled on the sides of the basin while they're still wet, and allowed to soak for about ten minutes. I would suggest you wear your grubbies, rubber boots, and plastic gloves if you intend or need to get inside the sytem to scrub it out. Sometimes the bleach is best spread around with a swimming pool acid washing or nylon brush. You will find the dead and dying material has lost color and rinses off easily. In difficult cases you may have to rinse and repeat. After bleaching, keep rinsing and dewatering the system to remove as much bleach as possible.

ACID WASHING is typically done with muriatic, also known as three molar hydrochloric (HCl) acid. This can be purchased from pool and masonry suppliers. As with chlorine bleach, though it is readily available from many other sources, caution must be used when handling HCl. Precautions and emergency treatment are provided on the containers. Dilute as per chlorine with the adage "do as you oughta, add acid to water." One precautionary note: NEVER mix acid and bleach together. If you need to chlorine bleach a system and acid wash to remove chemical stains, do the bleach job first, thoroughly rinse and dewater, then do the acid wash. The acid will foam and fume as it reacts with alkaline material so make sure you provide for plenty of ventilation. Apply, rinse, dewater, the same as for chlorine bleach.

Note: There is a technique for reducing fumes from the chlorine bleaching and acid washing. It involves the addition of a few drops on liquid soap into the watering can.

REFILLING: For the most part, no aquatic system should be left empty for any given period of time. After cleaning and effecting any repairs, the system should be refilled as soon as possible. I would suggest overfilling and squirting off the top surface film to waste.

TREATING CHEMICALLY: What you may need to do to render your new water either 1) biologically safe for fish/plants or 2) chemically treated to restrict algae growth, varies as per your geographic water quality and weather conditions. When in doubt regarding water condition, check with your local aquarium shop or pool service company.

If you have fish and plants and you think you've treated the water sufficiently for re-introduction, test the water overnight with an inexpensive OTO or DPD pool chlorine test kit.

RETURNING LIVESTOCK: Put the fish and plants back as soon as you are sure it's safe. Take care to acclimate them slowly by mixing new water with old and/or floating in plastic bags to reduce thermal shock.

OVERVIEW: Non-biological systems frequently need dumping, chlorine bleaching/acid washing to keep them clean. Occasionally it is appropriate to do the same for biological systems in order to check for cracks, to do repairs or move large amounts of undesirable solids. It is our hope that this article will help as a guide to make the job easier and safer.

Please see other articles on design, construction, maintenance of water gardens in this series, or you may contact Bob Fenner at Aquatic Environments, 8535 Arjons Dr, Ste. X, San Diego CA 92126. (619) 549-2688.

Cindy Martin is the Business Manager of Aquatic Environments, design and construction; Aquatic Life Services, maintenance; and Wet Pets, retail.

Costs of Waterscaping

By Bob Fenner

This article is an attempt to bring awareness to the public regarding the cost of designing, constructing and mainting water effects.

Ponds, streams, lakes, waterfalls, reflecting pools and fountains are enjoyed an enormous surge in popularity in residential, commercial and plastic settings. Like many habitat-enhancing investments, financial planning of your landscape is essential in laying out initial & on-going costs.

Design: Costs for help in generating plans need not be prohibitively expensive, Depending on the size & complexity of the water effect in mind an architect/designer specializing in water features may be warranted. Often, just a few dollars spent on a short consultation will suffice, contingent upon your background , ability and the willingness to be involved.

It is cost effective to call waterscape contractors in your area and look through their portfolio and work. They may be found in the yellow page directories, garden periodicals and trade associations. Make sure they hold a contractor's license! Visit with them and ask for estimates for construction and operating your water effect.

Read and save clippings (like this one!) that illustrate what you want in the way of sights and sounds from your waterscape. This will help you decide on your ultimate design and allow you to get "apples and apples" estimates from the various contractors.

Construction: As with design, if you feel you have the right time and expertise, do some or all of the work yourself. The involvement will change your relationship not just with the work but with yourself. Do not take shortcuts, consult with a professional if you feel you're getting in too deep.

With your plans/layout in hand, ask three to five qualified )i.e. licensed) bidders for written estimates on building the effect.n A note on what constitutes "qualifying": Use a licensed contractor, yourself or someone whom you trust explicitly. If you use an unlicnesed company and there is an injury on your property, or if materials and labor costs used to improve your land go un-paid you will be held responsible. A licensed contractor's work is guaranteed. They are regulated by the Consumers Affairs Board of the state who look out for your best interests. Licensed contractors carry insurance and can get you the most appropriate materials, tools and skilled labor. Cll your State Board of Contractors local office for more information. Considering quality, assurance and accountability, licensed contractors are may not be more expensive than doing the work yourself.

Real Construction Costs:

Fountains: Small ones may cost a few hundred dollars to buy and a few to several hundred dollars to install. This includes a concrete pad, lower basin and running the electricaal to Code to the site.

Ponds, Reflecting Pools: Cost anywhere from ten to fifty or more dollars per square foot of surface area. Proce-affecting factors are whether a liner or concrete is used, the type and amount of rock-work and the degree of sophistication of the circulation, filtration, purification system. Other substantial costs are excavation and hauling of the dirt, and bringing the electrical drains and other plumbing to and at the site. You can save about 50 by doing this part of the job yourself.

Major savings may be realized depending on the size of the feature by excavating and moving the "extra" soil done with a back- hoe or tractor and redistributing it over your landscape.

Maintenance: A frequently reflected yet irreducible cost is the amount of expense in time, materials and electricity for keeping the land & waterscape pristine. The cost of maintenance is often greater than the original installation.

Understand this: investing funds in a properly designed and constructed waterscape will result in lower maintenance costs and reduce problems. Determine before hand what degree of clarity, flow rate, amount of plants and/or fish(es) you will want to have and engineer your system to consistently produce those results. Sometimes professional help is a must. Money skimped on your water purification system will come back to haunt you.

Electricity: The major expense of a circulated water feature is energy. Many people are concerned that water costs will be prohibitive. The fact is, most systems use up very little water; much less than the equivalent surface of lawn. Have you ever heard of "watering" your pool an hour a week?

Electrical costs for pumps and other equipment can be considerable and should be included during initial planning. Biological systems with fishes and plants need to run twenty four hours a day and chlorinated systems must run at least a few hours every day. The electrical cost to run your system can be determined by your utility company or you can calculate it using the following formula: Multiply volts times amps for the device in question, divide by 1000 for kilowatts, multiply by the number of hours per month the system will run, then multiply by the rate per kilowatt. The result will be the cost of monthly operation for your water feature.

Example: 110 volt motor x drawing 3.7 amps x 1 kilowatts/1000 watts x 24 hours/day x 30 days per month x 14.4 cents per kilowatt equals $42.20 per month.

A well-designed and built system will require less money to operate with the least service time and cost of materials and electricity, than a poorly designed system. More importantly, you will be getting the sights and sounds you desired when you decided to build a waterscape.

Bob Fenner is president of Nature Etc., Inc., an employee-owned corporation with divisions involved in design, construction, maintenance, manufacture and sales of aquatic habitats, equipment and livestock.