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The Small Engine Advisor

Article by David Coker

Troubleshooting Small Engines -
The Basics

Troubleshooting is nothing more than a systematic process used to test and evaluate the systems and components of an engine in comparison to an expected result. For our purposes, there are two key points to keep under consideration:

When the test results are positive or as expected, you can eliminate the area being tested as cause for concern and move on to the next suspected area.

When the test results are negative or not as expected, you can focus your efforts on the system or components being tested until you find the actual cause of the problem.

Don't overlook the possibility that there will be more than one problem to be found with a given engine. You may locate and correct one problem, only to find yet another or even several more. Believe me, it happens all too often!

Although our focus is primarily on the engine itself, you may find yourself in a situation where the equipment is at fault, causing symptoms that are generally associated with an engine-related problem. Throughout the guide I've tried to address those types of problems where they usually apply, while pointing you towards a general course of action.

Here finally, are some tips that I've learned over the course of many years, (usually the hard way!) that should help you through the most difficult troubleshooting situations...

Tips for successful troubleshooting:
  • Keep it simple! Always check the easier things first, working towards the more complex!
  • Never assume that a system or component is working properly. Verify it!
  • Check only one area at a time and don't move on to something else until you've eliminated the system or component as the cause for your problem.
  • If you become frustrated, take a breather and walk away from the problem for a while. Don't allow your emotion to control your logic.
  • When in doubt, always refer to the proper repair instruction manuals for information and guidance.

David Coker is webmaster for the Small Engine Advisor site.

David's background and fascination with small engines began as a young kid trying to keep an old mower running well enough to earn some summer "spending money". From that starting point, he has been around or involved with small engines for over 30 years now.

David is a former territory manager for a Briggs & Stratton C.S.S.D, where as a certified Master Service Technician some of his responsibilities included troubleshooting assistance and warranty evaluations for over 100 small engine repair shops.

If you have any questions, or comments, or need some advice regarding small engines or power equipment, please write to us. Send us an email. Please include your name and address. We reserve the right to edit letters.



Lawn Care Tips

When should I apply pre-emergent herbicides for crabgrass prevention?

In central Ohio, for example, it is typically recommended to apply an herbicide by the application deadline of April 15, or April 22 if the homeowner uses a product that contains the active ingredient pendimethalin, which also has some early post-emergent activity. The deadline in southern Ohio is about April 1, and in northern Ohio, about April 30.

There are several pre-emergent products on the market, including an organic product that contains corn gluten meal. This product is available through specialty garden catalogs and is more expensive than the synthetic products.

Though a few crabgrass seeds germinate by the April 15 deadline date, the vast majority of seeds germinate in May. Germination begins when the temperature in the top inch of soil reaches 52-54 degrees or more for at least 5-7 consecutive days; soil moisture must also be present. Seeds also need light to germinate, so those thin areas in the lawn are likely places for crabgrass to become established.

If you have seeded the lawn this spring and still want to prevent crabgrass, there is only one pre-emergent herbicide to use that won’t kill the lawn grass seed. Look for siduron or Tupersan and to be aware that this product is more difficult to find and more costly than other products.

As with other pests, it is recommended that treatment be targeted. If crabgrass was a problem in the lawn last season, and it was allowed to go to seed, then you will probably want to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. If you are cutting new ornamental beds in the lawn, if areas along the driveway or sidewalks died out last season, or if the lawn is thin from grubs or disease injury, you might want to treat those areas with a crabgrass preventer. If you maintain a dense lawn and have not seen any crabgrass in the past two or three years, you probably don’t need to apply a herbicide.

Shade Tolerant Grasses?

Many grass species and cultivars are sold as shade tolerant. Shade tolerant grasses for Indiana include fine-leaf fescues for dry shade and tall fescue for damp shade. Realize that the word "tolerant" is the operative word, which does not imply "shade-loving." These grasses may survive, but will never thrive in the shade like they would in full sun. They will not maintain a dense stand, can withstand hardly any traffic, and may need regular reseeding to provide even an acceptable stand. That's all the more reason to avoid trying to maintain turf in the shade.

If You Must Seed, Do It Now

Late summer is the best time to seed, but sometimes turf must be seeded in the spring. Raking the soil before seeding and watering lightly will help to improve the success of spring seedings.

Information for these Lawn Care Tips were provided by the Ohio State University and Purdue Extension.

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